On the road to Chile Chico by 8 am and arrive around 9.30……… run into Alex again . He arrived yesterday about 3pm and was turned back at the border as he didn’t have insurance for Argentina…..spent the afternoon getting it on line….he will cross soon and head north. Fuelled up next to the Wharf and headed to the border.
No one spoke English but with little effort they took my papers and stapled them together and sent me to Argentina……..friendly agents.A few miles in I arrive at the Argentine Entry…..again no English but they are accommodating and point me to Customs, next customs points me to the Adana fellow who is next to customs, he takes the papers Chile stapled together….checks them, stamps and signs me in.
While I am packing the papers away the Aduana Officer comes out and asks me about my trip ( he speaks a little English ) I learn that he has a 91 680 Honda Trans Lap and would like to do a trip…….he wishes me a safe journey and I am off……..Every one has told me to go into any store and they will gladly exchange your American Currency 9 to 1…bank is about 6 to 1……..In the 1st border town of Los Antigua's, I try a garage, corner store and fancy coffee shop, no one is interested…..Coffee shop won’t even take it at par. I head out penniless for Perito Moreno and go to the local bank which I also tried in the border town but it was out of money……this one is to but I notice an armoured truck nearby and a police presence so I wonder about for a while and come back and vola get Argentinean Pesos…….have a pizza AT A LOCAL HOTEL where I try to book a room but they are full……..the pizza is large and becomes both dinner later and lunch the next day.
I follow my GPS out of town …see a sign that says Routa 40 but miss the 10 next to that number……..I end uo 170k in the run down oil town of Las Heras …..stop and ask where I can get Petro pointing at my take and get directions to the service station. Look about for a place to stay….no hostels APPARENT JUST A sleazy looking hotel. I debate on continuing on 43 to Fitz Roy then 3 South. In the end regrettably I chose to back track 53 k and take a gravel road #39 through a reserve 185 k…..I end up dry camping in the Savannah like country side with Wild Horses, Emus and Al Paca….its near dark when I quit the road …..nursing my bad ankle as I crashed at sunset coming around a corner AND up hill…the sun blinded me and I went down on rocks……the bike pinning me to the road and still running. I manage to hit the kill switch…….takes 10 minutes to get out from under the bike and all my strength to lift the bike so I can get my leg out. In the 185 k only one other vehicle and that was today. That’s how remote the area is……..no damage to the bike but today I broke the clutch lever and loosened the left mirror. I was back on the road by 6am and struggled for the next 2 hours against gale force winds that wouldn’t allow me to go faster than 10 to 2o k on gravel. At one point I had to stop as the wind borne gravel was hitting me so hard I couldn’t see for grit in my eyes. I stopped and was pushed ….I have a difficult time getting her up in the wind but I do manage. I have a broken clutch lever and damaged mirror…..lost some precious fuel. With one glove I get on and steady the bike…..both feet firmly planted, start it and in 1st and 2nd gear continue….I am know on my reserve tank and have been for the last 20 k……..finally I reach Routa 40 at Bajo Caracoles. It’s just a run down hotel and gas bar….looks like something out of a dust bowl American movie…( crap the power just went out )( the internet crapped about 10 minutes after I got on and still is not on) I am in a crappy Cabana costing 80 us….nothing else available….tent would blow away….the wind is coming through the windows…door etc. Power back on. After filling my tank and getting out spare gloves I head down the paved Routa 40…..I can’t get any speed and am blown all over the place….decision is made, I am turning around heading PERITO MORENO….now sitting in the dark again. It takes 4.1/2 hrs to get to Perito Moreno on Pavement no less.
TODAY HAS BEEN SO HECTIC AND FRIGHTNING AND THOSE WHO KNOW ME KNOW THAT I AM A RISK TAKER BUT TODAY WAS SOMETHING ELSE AND IF GOD WASN’T RIDINGWITH ME I DON’T THINK I COULD HAVE MADE IT
Hang in there Bob. Just think of all the great stories you will be telling for years to come.
ReplyDeleteYes, I am ...turned back and once again on rte to Ushuaia........only 1580 k to go
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ReplyDeleteHi Bob , enjoying your blogs & sure hope things improve with the wind and gravel . Some scenery has been wonderful . Sure hope you can meet up with those Irish lassies for a pint . The rocks will be a great asset in the travel garden for sure but wonder what you have to discard to carry them . here is wishing you well , widn at your back and smoother travelling ahead. Snow , snow & snow here - today rain thus reducing some of the piles of snow everywhere - perhaps better than dust ??
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