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Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Montanita to Puerto Lopez & Canoa-Feb 21 to 25 2019

IT WAS WITH GREAT SADNESS THAT I LEARNED THAT A NEW FRIEND MADE AT SUNDOWN PASSED AWAY  SATURDAY THE 16TH WHILE VISITING THE GALAPOLAS ISLS WITH HIS WIFE DEB.....R.I.P. ALLAN







We only spent the night in Montanita catching the Wanderbus at 7 am and headed north along the coast. We had agreed that our exit at Puerto Lopez would end our time with the tour and we would strike out on our own. Upon arriving in the town which is the coastal centre to the ISLA de La Plata which is 43k off shore and known as the poor man's Galapagos Isls.

It was 8am  and we had no idea of  how we would get to the Isl or when/how we would find a bus to Canoa, our home base. Hungry for breakfast, we strolled a block and soon were surrounded by taxi drivers wanting to take us where ever. None spoke English and the best I could do was say no entiendo ( don't understand ).....they dispersed with one guy hanging back...turns out he was a ticket agent for a tour company of the Island we wanted to get to. We followed him to the office and purchased 3 tickets for $ 35.00....this included the tour guide, morning snack on route, lunch of sandwiches and snorkeling with the fish after wards. Our trip would begin at 930am...it was now 830am so we left our luggage at the office and headed to a taxi to get a lift to the bus terminal and see about a ticket to Canoa and departure time. Tickets purchased for 3 hour ride at 5pm to Manta only where we need to get tickets for Canoa. ( needed the assistance of 2 young ladies as only Spanish spoken) Our tour was to be back at 4pm so this should work.












Arriving shortly before 4 we quickly headed to get our luggage and taxied to the  Terminal. I asked an attendant if any buses leaving for Manta and showed him the ticket...his reply was 5pm....it is now 410pm and I knew their was a 4pm bus......a minute later he says to me ...bus for Manta...hurry...( I assume the 4pm bus was late and they were waiting to see if it was full before offering us an earlier ride. This turned out to be a stop and go bus picking up and discharging passengers along the route. Arriving in Manta at 7pm I felt a bus may not get us to Canoa as it would go to another city first and unlikely that a bus would go to Canoa until morning. I went and bartered with the taxi drivers and was able to secure a ride for $50.00...1 1/2 hours trip. We arrived in Canoa at 9pm.....home away from home.

Friday/Saturday/Sunday was restocking with food supplies in Bahia and San Vicente and resting. Monday with sunny weather my friend Julia escorted us to San Isidro.an Interior town about 50k away. We stopped at a farm tienda along the way. If you didn't know it was there you would have driven on by....Julia had purchased coffee here before and this turned out to be one of the highlights of the day with a tour of the farm. This small but productive family enterprise harvests it multi diversity of crops which includes multiple fruits and vegetables; as well as Cocoa and coffee. They in turn manufacture this into such commodities as ice cream, chocolate and coffee which is sold locally.

 
 The farmer and his daughter...he gave us a banana which is so good compared to what we get at home.

 The farm is mostly on a slope...here we have reached the top and are cooled though slightly by a gentle breeze....it is so hot and humid that our cloths are sticking to us. We are drenched with perspiration from the climb....except for the farmer who must be amused at our condition. He is super friendly and converses with Julia who interprets for us...thanks Julia 


Next, we motored to San Isidro stopping for a snack before taking a back road for 40k which was a motorcyclist dream....up and down with continuous curves all paved and no traffic.Turning back towards Canoa at the main coastal highway for a few k ....then exiting unto a hard packed potholed mud lane for 7k to RIO MUCHACHO an organic farm....  https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1023820-d3736782-Reviews-Rio_Muchacho_Organic_Farm-Canoa_Manabi_Province.html

My rear tyre seemed low with the extra 230 lds I was carrying and the Noby's on the rear wheel would rub on the pannier frame support.....
  The Happy Motorcyclists




It was a semi disappointing experience with the exception of the organic meal prepared for us which was a delicious combination of  vegetables from the farm and a fresh pineapple drink all served in bowls and spoons made from the shells of plants.
 Great meal

 don't eat the spoon Julia

 Man power for the shower raising water from the well


The disappointment comes as the result of 5 star reviews by National Geographic, and Lonely Planet who must not have visited this site in a long time......it appears to be in a state of disrepair and neglect in part due to the April 2016 Earthquake which destroyed the main house and damaged other structures. I suspect a lack of $ has slowed the rebuilding process.

We made it back to Canoa ahead of thunder and rain which would have made the road treacherous for 7k.......the day ended with a late HAPPY HOUR.










Saturday, February 23, 2019

Cuenca to Montanita Feb 20-2019

We made it on time for the bus........the new street cars will be running in March and make a loop through the old city. I snapped a couple pics of the train which is running but only for certification of drivers.....this system is not new but was abandoned years ago and last year when I was here I observed workers who I thought were tearing up the tracks but the opposite.
 
 After a breakfast in the mountains in a restaurant in near freezing temps we stop at a national park....







 back on the road winding down the mountain...my friend Julia and I rode this way last year but in the opposite direction...in dense fog and rain....almost torrential at times...plus numbing cold.



clearing a rock slide...some of these boulders could topple a bus off the cliff...hundreds of feet to one's demise

 As we neared the coast but still in the mountains the humidity increased ten fold and the vegetation went from sparse to jungle like with plants bearing leaves the size of palms. 

 the lower valley gave way to sugar cane, rice, banana, plantain and cocoa farming

 The bus veered off the highway onto a pot hole mud track which led us to a Cocoa Plantation 

 This is the inside of a Cocoa pod which was opened by a chap swinging a machete while holding the pod in his hand...the seeds look disgusting but the fleshy part is a sweet delicacy....the seeds are extracted and laid out on cement or a tarp for drying....after which they will find their way to the roaster to become liquid chocolate 

 a bean to be dried and one dry


 2 types of  cocoa pods ...1 is yellow and one a red color.....apparently the yellow one is a higher grade of chocolate.

 rice field


 drying beans

 a lunch was served at the farm....shrimp/plantain

 first the seed is roasted until it cracks like pop corn...then you roll it in the palm of your hand removing the shell....the seed then goes to the old meat grinder for prep back to the frying pan where it will melt and brown sugarcane will be added to sweeten it and it is ready for tasting and a chocolate drink.


 sugar

 see any crocs

 next stop is a small shop making panama hats and an assortment of weaved products.....here Vickie would make a hat purchase.......while Doug lamented not buying a hat at the large Cuenca Plant. 


 not the one 
 SOLD

 the weavers
 
 Montanita...arrived in the twilight....

 dinner here

 bars upon bars...V&D would step out after I went to sleep to sample the drinks and possibly dull their minds as my booking choice made them nervous to close their eyes in their room

 pan handling

 dinner







 10 pm and still cutting hair